In this blog on the Southwest of Sardinia I show you tips and inspirations to discover the Costa Verde including the excluded Spiaggia di Piscinas (see below), cruise via Spiaggia Portixeddu, Buggerru, Cala Domestica to Porto Flavia and enjoy the nice atmosphere of Iglesias.
I had a long day ahead, from Oristano to Iglesias via the coast. These are a lot of kilometers to drive through the mountains and hills; beautiful scenery all the way so no punishment. One minor detail it started to rain for the first time since my holiday here in Sardinia. Not really heavy rain but, the rooftop could not be open for the whole journey. First challenge was to get to the Costa Verde, indeed challenge because this place is really “Off the Beaten Track” how I call it. The main beach is called Spiaggia di Piscinas and I was very curious about this beach; so drove a couple of hours to get there.
In the town of Guspini drive to Montevecchio, before getting to that town you pass a zinc and lead mining complex in the middle of the granite peaks. After Montevecchio follow the road to Costa Verde or Portu Maga. The road gets semi-dirty or semi-hard, depends how you look at it, at some point. I thought I was lost but a couple directed me in the right direction. It was a long and winding road, now you understand where the Green Coast is coming from!
Tip: The couple told me that the other dirt road via Ingurtosu was not accessible for my Mini…..so I drove the same way back. You are warned!!
After 45 min on the semi dirt road through the inland I arrived at the untamed coastline, it was till raining. The coast is an unspoiled stretch of sand dunes, very different than all the other coasts I have seen so far. I walked through the dunes to the main beach of Spiaggia di Piscinas. It is a beautiful beach, but to be honest, it is quite a journey to get here. Maybe it was due to the bit rainy day, but looking back I would not have driven all the way here. So no recommendation from my side….
Beaches of Portixeddu, Burggerru & Cala Domestica
Next to the little bit disappointing Costa Verde, more luck at the surf beaches of Portixeddu and Burggerru. It was still raining a bit, I know everything looks so much nicer and colorful with the sun, but not waves too. I saw some nice beach houses at the Spiaggi di Protixeddu where you can eat and rent your surf gear. The town of Burggerru is set within the natural stone walls of a steep valley and is a popular holiday resort town with a small harbor. The basis of this town is again mining, as many places here in Sardinia I noticed till now.
Finally at the beach Cala Domestica the sun came out and everything looked so much nicer. This sensational sandy beach lies between to rocks in a remote part of the area. Perfect for swimming and surfing (no waves….for me). The road alongside the coast is again amazing. It is really a joy to drive here in Sardinia.
Porto Flavia is a dug into the cliffs 50 m above the sea; a marvel 20th century engineering. Created to serve the mining and get the zinc and lead directly onto the cargo ships underneath. The coast looks amazing here with a rock in front of the harbor. I passed the harbor by car and had a look from a distance.
I liked this town! Not the parking, I have to admit. The medieval center of Iglesias is car free, which is a good thing to make the streets accessible and cozy. Some street are really narrow, is that why the streets are car free…..The basis of this town is mining, what’s new?! The name Iglesias is church in Spanish and has a great history with piazzas, sun-bleached building, churches and home where the laundry is drying outside. I went back in time in this town.
I booked a aristocratic 19th-century B&B in the centro storico La Babbajola for 55 EUR per night; the breakfast was standard and not spectacular but the rooms are clean and comfortable. Feels like you are part of a family at home. I knew that this town had a street where umbrellas cover a shopping street. I was curious to see it and it was within two streets from my B&B and shopped a nice dress at Sisley!
I walked around town and spotted in one of the small streets a nice place to have dinner; Sa Matracca at Via Repubblica 42. The place outside on the streets looked homey and attractive.
Tip: Here in Sardinia they have a kind of appetizer menu, a small plate with meat and cheese and mainly an Aperol Spritz or wine. This is a perfect starter and cost around 7 to 8 EUR.
The next morning I had a perfect coffee at Piazza Lamarmora, at the Caffè with the same name. Don’t miss Iglesias; you don’t have to book three nights here. For me an afternoon and morning was enough to get a good feeling. Check here the blog on Costa del Sur and Pula.
Have a save journey!!